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Coffee, Caffe, Java, Joe... whatever you call it, just give me some!

2012-01-27T14:16:00.003-05:00

I have the coolest mom. Today in the mail came a package with a little memento from Sanibel Bean, my favorite coffee shop on the island. I won't make it down there this year so mom sent me a virtual cup "to warm the cockles of my heart". How sweet is that?! My love affair with coffee is intense and well documented. It started 22 years ago in the basement of a pensione in Rome where the Signora made a caffe latte to die for. It still remains the best I have ever had. It was so good that even on the weekends my roommate Mimi and I would set our alarms to make sure we didn't miss breakfast hour, trundle down for coffee and biscotti and then go back to bed.

If you haven't had coffee in Italy, you haven't lived. Espresso even converted my husband who didn't touch the stuff for the first 44 years of his life. Then on a trip to Northern Italy he gave it a try and now his morning drink of choice is a doppio espresso . Still makes me laugh when I think of this six foot guy sipping espresso from a tiny cup in a vineyard tasting room.

It's not just the flavor of the coffee but it's the whole experience. The pulse of a cafe in Italy is great - neighbors and friends gather for morning espresso and gossip. In the more elegant bars your coffee will come with little cookies or a chocolate. And the maestro behind the bar will put any Starbucks barista to shame. Usually dressed in a blazer or a vest, he manages the flurry of orders shouted at him with ease and expertise. There is no writing the details on a paper cup - this is a true professional.

Obviously I can't always get to Italy for my morning caffeine kick. So while I am stateside I will comfort myself with the fabulous coffee at places like Sanibel Bean and Ashlawn Coffee. And I will count the days until I get to Rome in March!

The end of an era...

2011-12-20T15:50:00.004-05:00

Last week I came across this article about Rome’s plan to pave over some of the cobblestone streets to make the pedestrian areas more accessible to women in heels.

Rome to Repave Cobblestones

Nowhere else in the world would urban planning be dictated by the latest fashion (or in the case of Italian women, the timeless tradition of wearing fabulous albeit unsensible footwear!) I can’t say that I am in favor of this change. The cobblestones – known as sanpietrini, or little St. Peters – are an integral part of the fabric of the Roman cityscape and add incredible charm to the urban setting. However, I do understand the reason for the decision. In fact, I have first hand knowledge and experience. My memory of a particular evening at the Spanish Steps will remain in my memory as one of the greatest nights I spent with my husband (then boyfriend).We spent our final night of a 10-day trip wandering the streets of Rome, taking in the sights and enjoying the warm summer evening.Most of that night I spent barefoot, stopping only to put my shoes back on when we went into a restaurant for dinner. I had abandoned my shoes after a harrowing descent of the Spanish Steps in which I quite possibly dislocated Doug’s shoulder as I clung to him for dear life.

Here are the offending (though stylish) mules.

While they are of amateur status by any Italian woman’s standards, they were the demise of my promenade around the Eternal City and I opted for dirty street urchin feet once I could not take another step. Pave the streets if you must Mayor Alemanno. And to the uber stylish women of Rome, I salute you and your refusal to submit to function over fashion.

The Return of Live It's blog

2011-11-30T08:51:00.004-05:00

I'm back! After a long absence from blogging, what is the one thing that would inspire me to start writing again? Food, of course! Enjoy - I will see you soon (I promise!)

Grazie mille Mario Batali & Co. I travel quite a bit to Italy but my home is here in the States. It may seem odd to you that I would travel to NYC for the sole purpose of going to a food emporium but this isn’t just any food emporium, this is the mother ship: Eataly. At a time when I was craving the fresh seasonal offerings that you can only get in Italy, Doug and I boarded the train and headed to 23^rd and Broadway for a hedonistic day of gastronomic delights. Kid in the candy store doesn’t begin to describe how I felt. My pulse quickened as I entered - that was before the espresso. I knew I had to control myself - how many calories could one truly enjoy in a few hours? (don’t answer that!) With 11 eateries and a whole market of take home goodies imported directly from Italy, not to mention a wine shop dedicated exclusively to Italian labels, I was in a serious quandary. Where to start? I need a plan, I thought. And there I saw it, highlighted on a blackboard as one of the specials at the Verdure (vegetable) restaurant: Fried Artichokes. I dragged my carnivore of a husband to the counter, plopped myself down and nibbled on Roman style bread while I waited for the artichokes to arrive, hoping they would be even remotely like the ones I so relished in Rome. I wasn't disappointed. As I savored this dish that was simple and yet incredibly flavorful, I felt transported if only for a little while to the Eternal City. So, all my dear Italophiles, if you can’t get to Italy I encourage you to make a pilgrimage to the mecca that is Eataly and experience it yourself. Because I haven’t even mentioned the salame and cheese panino that I sampled after the artichokes... to be continued. Buon Appetito!

Traveling with kids

2010-07-01T10:18:00.001-04:00

As I zipped up my suitcase and pulled it off the bed I thought to myself, “What was I thinking??” In November when we were contemplating this, it seemed like a great idea. My stepdaughter Caitlin has been bugging me to tag along on one of my trips to Italy for several years now and we finally decided that it was time. What I forgot was that I am a solitary traveler, especially when it comes to international trips. I am accustomed to traveling to Italy - I go about 4 times a year - and I have a routine down when I go. I spend a lot of quality time with my IPod and I am asleep before the plane even leaves the ground.

We travel often with our children (ages 13, 13 and 6). Granted, these trips have been limited in scope to the East Coast - Florida, Cape Cod, Pittsburgh, upstate NY, Maryland - but they have all been stellar travelers so in a moment of weakness I agreed to this idea. We mulled over all of the possibilities - should we take the whole family? Should we take the twins and leave the little one behind? Should my husband and I take Caitlin alone? None of the combinations seemed right in one way or another until we decided that I would share this place that was so important to me and so interesting to Caitlin with her alone.

Here are some tips on how to make the most of a trip abroad with children :

Go somewhere that you know or at least that you have visited before - this is not the time to be doing the whole “wing and a prayer” style of travel. I love doing that when I am alone or with my husband but when children are involved I think it is important to have a familiarity with the place. That is not to say that things will always go perfectly smoothly but you are definitely minimizing the possibility of complete disasters.

Relax - you don’t have to go to the Louvre when you are in Paris. Remember that this experience is for the kids and think about it from their perspective. I had made reservations for the Borghese Gallery but we passed it up so that Caitlin could go shopping for a orange scarf. This may seem materialistic and shallow to some but for me it was confirmation that Caitlin was “getting it”. She had been observing the Italian people, noticed that everyone wears scarves and decided that this was something that she wanted to bring back as a memento of her trip. We still smile when she pulls it out of the closet.

Let the kids make some decisions. Have an idea of an itinerary but be flexible enough that you can change the itinerary if something particularly intrigues your kids. I had planned all these great restaurants for us to eat in but on the first day in Rome Caitlin fell in love with the pizza at the bakery across the street from the hotel. By the end of each day, she was so exhausted that the idea of waiting until 8:00 for dinner was inconceivable so we would grab a piece of pizza al taglio, a couple of biscotti and a drink, curl up in bed and watch a movie on her DVD player. Being the foodie that I am, this of course bothered me until I just let go and realized that this was not going to be like the trips I usually take to Italy. And that is just fine.

Don’t criticize their observations. When we were in Rome there were things Caitlin did not like - she was bored at many of the churches that I dragged her into. I began to lose my patience and then I thought back to my husband’s first trip to Italy He was bored at many of the churches too. Medieval history is not for everyone, you know.

Don’t insist on seeing everything. If Doug and I have learned one thing in traveling with the kids, it is that less is more. I think this is even more the case when it comes to international travel. You are laying the groundwork for a lifetime of adventures for your children so don’t treat it as a once in a lifetime and try to pack it all in. Caitlin and I had a ball sitting on a wall overlooking the Umbrian countryside in Orvieto, drinking cappuccino at a cafe in Piazza Navona.

Above all, have fun and try to remember every precious moment!

After all my trepidation, I knew I had made the right decision when we pulled away from the hotel and headed to the airport. Caitlin looked out the window, waved goodbye to Rome and said “I think I’d like to go to Paris and London next”.

The Company You Keep

2010-05-05T12:34:00.001-04:00

Travel is about people. Not only the people you meet but the people with whom you are traveling. The company that surrounds you can vastly change the experience you have while traveling. That is not to say that you have to always travel with the same people. I certainly know that is not true as in my job I have the distinct pleasure of traveling with a vast array of different people from all walks of life. Each time I run a trip, the experience is unique and interesting in its own way. I have been to the Spanish Steps in Rome more times than I can count but each time that experience is determined by my traveling companions. I recall my stepdaughter’s observations about the Italian people and her decision to buy a scarf just like was the fashion at that time. I remember clinging to my husband (then my boyfriend) for dear life as we made our way down the steps on the way to dinner. I had decided to get really dressed up for our last dinner in Rome, complete with stiletto heels. I quickly regretted this decision as we looked down from the top of the Spanish Steps. For clients who are interested in literature I point out the Keats/Shelley house, for those who seem less interested in anything cultural I point out the first McDonalds in Italy that is found right near the Spanish Steps. Every reaction and interaction that I have with my clients brings new perspective to my impressions of Italy and I appreciate that there is never only one way to see things. I relish the experiences I have while traveling in Italy because it is through that personal exchange that the true essence is reached. Next time you travel make sure that you not only take time to see the things you went to see but also to listen to those who are traveling with you and hear about the experience from their perspective. You won’t be disappointed.

L'Insalatone (The Big Salad)

2010-05-05T12:32:00.001-04:00

I try not to make all of my entries about food and wine while I am traveling through Italy (though it would be easy to do so) but today I had to write about my lunch. For a long time I thought the American restaurant scene finally had something over the Italians: the salad. I don’t mean a little salad that you order with your meal, I mean the BIG SALAD (cue the Seinfeld music). Italian salad always lacked something. Yes, the lettuce was good, the carrots had more flavor than any I had ever tasted in the US and the tomatoes never tasted like cardboard. But in the past Italians would never accept a salad as an entrée and therefore the possibility to have just that rather than a pasta course, a meat course and THEN salad was inconceivable. And certainly, after all the food preceding it, one was never hoping for a big salad. But Italians have finally jumped on the big salad bandwagon and I must say, nobody does it better. Yesterday I had a divine salad with grilled chicken, parmesan shavings, cherry tomatoes and olives. There was no inquiry about whether or not I wanted creamy garlic salsa ranch peppercorn dressing. The dark green local olive oil bottle was plopped on my table along with a bottle of balsamic vinegar and salt. No pepper, that is by special request only. A glass of prosecco, my big salad and a hunk of fresh bread – che buono! Life is good!

The Seasoned Traveler....well, maybe not.

2010-04-29T18:00:00.001-04:00

There are times when I feel like a real pro when I travel. This three week trip had me especially proud because I really limited my clothing choices, accepting the fact that yes, I can wear the same shirt a few times in the arc of three weeks and admitting that yes, there are laundry services here in Italy. I even limited my shoes to four pairs (five if you include my running shoes but those will be used only when I go for a run. I lived in Rome for long enough to know that my New Balance sneaks are definitely a fashion "don't").

My flight was easy and all connections were on time. I slept for five hours on the plane and when I got to Milan, my bag was there as well. So you can imagine that I was feeling sure of myself at the very least, dare I say a little cocky. And that is when the travel gods decided to teach me a lesson. I was halfway to Lake Garda when I realized that I had left my travel wallet with passport and all my travel documents in the bathroom at the Malpensa airport. My fabulous and adorable driver Stefano worked his magic - he made calls to the main switchboard at the airport,to the police and the Lost & Found until he finally tracked down the wallet. Then he arranged for a colleague to pick the wallet up for me and he will bring it to me tomorrow when he picks up my clients at the airport and brings them to the hotel.

Travel (especially international) isn't always easy. But we should do it anyway. It usually works out just fine - I know it did for me! Buona notte!

Val D'Orcia & the New York Times

2010-03-07T18:57:00.003-05:00

Today's New York Times travel section included a piece on an undiscovered (or more accurately, a less discovered) corner of Tuscany called the Val D'Orcia. My most recent visit to this little parcel of heaven was last March where, despite snow and roads that required an off road vehicle that would resemble a tank more than a car, I had a most serene and inspiring stay. My home away from home was the magnificent La Bandita, which is also mentioned in this article. Here is the link - it's not often that I concur with those who write about Italy but in this case, Ms. Pergament is right on the mark. http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/03/07/travel/07tuscany.html?scp=1&sq=tuscany&st=cse

Not in Kansas anymore....(Feb 11, 2010)

2010-02-14T09:02:00.003-05:00

I headed out from Franciacorta in the snow. The roads were clear though so nothing major fortunately. Now here I am in what can only be described as the perfect picture of an Alpine village. This is a town called Cogne in Val D'Aosta in the northwest corner of Italy. Gone are the rows of naked vines, the earth tones on the stucco-faced housed. All this is replaced with chalets, wooden buildings, soaring peaks, lots of snow and signage in French as well as Italian - magnificent. I have driven the roads of the Amalfi Coast, the Italian Riviera and the lakes but I must say that today was the most intense driving I have done in Italy. Perhaps it was the snow, the lack of familiarity with the roads, the avalanche warnings that I passed every few kilometers or so, or maybe it was the ravine that awaited me to my right should I make one false move. Mamma Mia... I drove through national park called Gran Paradiso - grand paradise - aptly named. The views are spectacular! Now I am nestled safely in a lovely little inn called Notre Maison. Dinner, breakfast and a bed all for 68 euro - can't beat it. As I sat at dinner the fire was roaring, the wine was flowing and I was green with envy as every one around me was talking about a fabulous day of skiing. But alas, no rest for the weary - I am off to Piedmont in the morning. See you soon!

On the Road Again!

2010-02-09T15:44:00.002-05:00

Note: This has been posted a couple of days late - trouble getting to a computer. Such is life in Italy.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Greetings from Venice! Finally here after a day of travel that has become par for the course for any international traveller. Plane arrived in London on time but was still late as we waited on the tarmac for 45 minutes before a gate was available for us. Did what felt like a last chance workout through the halls of Heathrow. This included a pat down deluxe by a security guard. It seems that the Brits don’t wear underwire bras – that is the only explanation I have for the overzealous attention paid to my chest area. Despite my efforts and an all out sprint to the departure gate, I missed my flight to Venice. Took another to Rome and THEN on to Venice. The bad news: no luggage, - the good news: they know the bag is in Rome and should be here tomorrow. But as they say here “The only thing you can count on in Italy is a miracle. Praying to Saint Anthony tonight - we will see what happens. Stay tuned…..

Went to dinner in the Dorsoduro district. Did not want to go far from the hotel so I consulted a guide book , something I rarely do, preferring always to ask the locals for recommendations. From the moment I walked into the restaurant, I wanted to hate the place. It was big, ugly and lacked character. However, it was filled with people – some tourists but mostly locals and that is always a good sign but I was still wary. Then I ate the crostini with fontina cheese and porcini mushrooms - this was accompanied by “fried vegetables” - sounds nasty I know but it was one of the most delicious things I have eaten in a long time. Peppers, zucchini, eggplant and carrots(!) in a very light batter that was hardly there at all. Quickly fried and salted. Unbelieveable! Washed it down with a fabulous glass of prosecco (the drink of choice here in Venice) and returned to my hotel full and happy. A great start to a busy trip. More tomorrow.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Oh my ! Getting lost in Venice – this is truly the only way to go. I read a recommendation once that I will always remember. It said that if you are ever in Venice and you see something you love in a store, buy it. – you will never find your way back again! When you are here in Venice you follow signs to the major sites, monuments or squares – Piazza San Marco, Accademia Gallery, The Rialto Bridge. Sometimes there are proper signs that have been there for ages, other times there is a piece of paper taped to the wall of a building (I’m serious). Finally you arrive at a point where there are no directions and more than one way to go. What does one do? Choose one way – perhaps you choose the road less traveled or perhaps you decide to follow the crowd like a lemming. Either way, to be honest, you can’t go wrong. This evening I found the most fantastic wine bar. As usual I was lost (what’s new). The owner was a lovely blond woman who answered every question I had (Do you have Prosecco? Is the marmalade good?) with “Madonna!” which basically means “Are you kidding me?? Of course!” This place was obviously a local joint and far off the tourist track. I had a cheese plate with homemade marmalades – one was onion and the other was carrot and tomato. Sounds nasty I know but as the owner said, “The marmalade is like a drug” – and it was. Unfortunately (or fortunately) you can only get it there in that little wine bar in Venice - sounds like a good excuse to return (like I need one!) I just hope I can find it again!

Question of the Week

2009-10-06T11:37:00.003-04:00

On Tuesdays I will now be requesting reader participation. Since I can never get enough of talking about Italy and sharing experiences, I decided that we should hear from anyone who would like to chime in and offer his or her own view of Italy.

Today's Question: What is your favorite place in Italy?

This can be a city, town, hotel, a specific spot from where you can see a most splendid sunset - anything that moves you. Tell us why this place means so much to you. If you are anything like me, it will be virtually impossible to choose but give us one (or two if you must!).

I will check back later today and leave my own reply.

Ciao!

Italian fever - catch it!

2009-09-22T11:00:00.004-04:00

Last week I did a slide presentation about Italy at the Guilford Art Center. About 45 people showed up and I talked about Italy and the Italians. I was so pleased with the number of people who showed up and I was pleasantly surprised at the vast and varied Italian experiences that many of these folks had. Obviously some of the them were of Italian heritage but this was really a small portion of them. Many of them, like me, had gone to Italy and fallen in love - -not with a person but with a place, a culture, a lifestyle. One man (clearly not Italian) came up to me and spoke several sentences in Italian - very charming. He and his wife were leaving that week for their annual trip to Italy and were spending 5 weeks there - ah, to be retired! We laughed about our experiences there, especially our adventures in driving and we were grateful that at least they drive on the same side of the road as we do here in the States. One woman told me that she always thought her son-in-law who is of Italian descent was very quirky but after my lecture she gained some insight into the Italians and now realized why he is the way he is. Another gentleman came up to me and thanked me for bringing back wonderful memories of the time he spent in Italy when he traveled there for business. He shared his own experiences with me and of course I was captivated.

The love for things Italian truly brings people together. We become a wee bit obsessed - the food, the wine, the art, the people - but it is harmless and really, how can you not love it all? I am giving this lecture again this week at the Burlington, CT library - Thursday, Sept. 24 at 7 PM. If you are in the area, join us! It should be another fun evening of la dolce vita and we would love to see you there!

Ferragosto

2009-08-10T20:37:00.003-04:00

Well finally here in Connecticut it actually feels like summer. Hot, humid and a little bit stifling. This to me is perfect summer weather. Sure it wreaks havoc on my hair which is not quite straight but not curly either and yes it makes me wish that I had central air. But more than anything, it reminds me of Italy and particularly Rome. Though I usually would spend the month of August back in the States, I did have a few occasions to find myself in the Eternal City for the hottest month of the year. It was not unusual for the temperature to hit 100 for several days straight. While this may seem like a true inferno for many, for me it turned Rome into the city I love the best. A city that slows down because in that heat, you can't do anything but slow to a snail's pace. Rome is surprisingly quiet during August as most Italians hit the road and spend a good part of the month at the shore. Those who are left make the best of a bad situation. Every square inch of sidewalk is used for outdoor seating at restaurants and cafes which come to life at about 10 PM when it has cooled off enough to even contemplate having dinner. No one expects you to do much all day - meet for an early morning coffee, eat a lemon granita, duck into a church less for the religion and more for the fact that these solid rock structures stay refreshingly cool and then maybe lounge in the Villa Borghese with a good book. The jazz clubs move outdoors, there are movies playing in the main squares of the city and any thought of sleep until the wee hours is put aside during these dog days of summer. Sound pretty civilized, doesn't it? Unfortunately there is not a sidewalk cafe to be found here in New London that is open at 3 AM - guess I will have to wait for my next August trip to Rome - can't wait!

Word of the Day

2009-05-07T13:15:00.000-04:00

Buon giorno! Welcome to Wednesday's word of the day. And yes, I know that it is Thursday but we are on Italian time here folks. Let it go and embrace the pace. Apropos to this, my word of the day today is passeggiata. This literally means a walk or stroll but has much deeper cultural implications. The afternoon passeggiata in Italy is a central part of the day, especially weekend days. Italians get dressed up in their finest and stroll up and down the main streets of their town or city. As they stroll slowly (and I do mean SLOWLY), they check out everyone else - what they are wearing, who they are with, whether her bag is from last season etc. They do not go very far but it takes a long time. Unlike Americans who head out at breakneck speed, there is not a destinations. The Italians will walk somewhere until they decide to turn around and go back. No purpose except to see, be seen and socialize with fellow strollers. We need more of this in the States so this weekend, go out for a passeggiata. Just be careful not to get plowed down by the speed walking soccer mom! Until next time - ciao!

10 Roman Gems

2009-04-28T10:10:00.007-04:00

It has been a long time since I lived in Rome and I definitely start to feel "Romesick" if I go too long without my fix. Having spent more than 4 years there, I rarely do the standard tourist thing when I return - you would be hard pressed to find me waiting on line at the Vatican Museums. Been there, done that, more times than I care to remember. Rome is home to me and being in your hometown means going to local haunts, but also taking the time to appreciate the culture - though in a different way than one who is passing through for a weekend. Here is a list of things that I love to do/see/visit when I go back to Rome. Honestly, many of them revolve around food and drink but as they say....when in Rome....

Borghese Gallery - I know, not exactly off the beaten path but I cannot resist this gallery. The sculptures by Bernini are exquisite. If you go, make sure you book ahead of time or you will have a hard time getting in, especially in high season. Following the visit (which is limited to two hours, you can walk through the Villa Borghese, a gorgeous urban park, and continue on to the Spanish Steps.
Santa Sabina - this Early Christian church is located on the Aventine Hill and is worth the trek. It is beautiful in its simplicity and is situated next to the park called the Orange Grove which affords a stellar view of the city.
Granita di Caffe - you will never be able to have a frappuccino again after tasting this decadent treat at the Caffe Tazza D'Oro near the Pantheon. It is layers of frozen, sweetened espresso and fresh whipped cream. Enough said.
Parco Celimontana - in the summertime (late July and August) the jazz club Alexanderplatz moves outside to take advantage of the splendid Roman summer nights. The build a stage in the middle of a beautiful park near the Colosseum and offer nightly music and dining.
Antico Enoteca della Croce though there are many many winebars in Rome, this remains one of my favorites. Located near the Spanish steps, it is popular with locals and tourists alike. Sit at the counter and have a glass from their extensive selection along with a plate of antipasto. This is a perfect way to end a day in Rome.
Chiostro di Bramante Bramante's Cloister located at Santa Maria della Pace (Piazza Navona area) offers great exhibits and concerts. It is worth checking out the schedule if you are going to be in Rome.
Trattoria San Teodoro - this has always been and remains my favorite restaurant in Rome. Located in a quiet neighborhood behind the Capitoline Hill, it is a popular spot for politicians, soccer players and various Roman celebrities. The food is fantastic. Be prepared to spend a lot but relish this special treat. If they are available, have a carciofi della Giudea (Jewish artichoke). This is a typical Roman dish that they do better here than anywhere. My brother still talks about those artichokes from his trip 10 years ago!
Pizza Bianca - when your feet are aching from walking the cobblestones for miles and you need a midmorning break, head for Campo dei Fiori to the Forno for pizza bianca (white pizza). This is pizza dough topped with salt and olive oil. It comes out of the oven in a big slab and you can choose as big or small a piece as you would like. It hits the spot and you can continue your trek through the Eternal City.
Capitoline Cafe - on the Capitoline Hill, next to the museum shop there is a cafe' with a terrace and a magnificent view of Rome. Go here for a prosecco in the late afternoon. The light at sunset is sublime and of course, there's the prosecco....
La Cremeria - the debate over the best gelato in Rome is a never ending one - San Crispono, Palazzo del Freddo, Giolitti, Gelateria delle Palme - but my personal favorite is La Cremeria at the Pantheon. I don't actually go there for the gelato but for the cremolata which is like a sorbet but so much better. In one cup you can get up to three flavors of fruit ice. buonissimo!

Word of the Day

2009-04-08T21:23:00.002-04:00

Hello all! Today's word is primavera. It means spring. Although this morning it did not feel much like spring as we had snowflakes in the air, I know the good weather is just around the corner. Spring in Italy is fabulous - not so hot or crowded as it is in the summer and one can truly feel a reawakening. Gastronomically speaking it means some of my favorite delights - asparagus, fava beans, artichokes. If you have never had an Jewish artichoke in Rome, you have not lived. There is nothing simpler or more delicious. The whole artichoke is fried in olive oil until the leaves are crispy and golden and then it is sprinkled with salt and served as an appetizer. Go to Rome and get one - NOW! The experience will be a true celebration of La Primavera (also a pretty nice work of art by Botticelli in the Uffizi by the way.)

I don't like tiramisu.

2009-04-06T22:00:00.000-04:00

There, I said it. I feel like a huge weight has been lifted from my shoulders. I don't know why I don't like it, I just don't. It seems almost sacrilege for an Italophile like myself to admit this.

While I am not a fan of the dessert, the process of making it is wonderful. I love to cook and appreciate the time and precision of a dessert such as tiramisu. Every cook has his or her own technique and recipe, no one does it exactly like another. Last May I took 7 clients to the Villa di Riboia for a cooking class. This is a private home nestled in the hills outside of Florence. Milvia showed us how to make an exquisite sauce for pasta and in it she cooked our second course of involtini. While that was cooking she made us some bruschetta and a tiramisu that even I have to admit, was like no other. The kitchen was the epitome of calm the entire time. It was incredible. Milvia whipped up some delicious spinach to serve with the involtini and while the pasta was cooking she took us on a tour of her villa. She was amazing, but very set in her ways. We sat when and where she asked us to, we tasted when she said taste, sipped wine when she said it was to be (even though it was only 10:30 AM) lent a hand when she asked for it. At one point while she was making the tiramisu, she said (through me as I translated), you can make this in the morning before your dinner party and put it into the refrigerator until it is time to serve. So one of the women in our group piped up and said "or you could make it the night before, right?" I translated for Milvia and I have never seen such a horrified look on someone's face. So clearly, the lesson here is, you don't make your tiramisu the night before.

Check back here Wednesday for my word of the week.

Worth the effort!

2009-03-21T11:57:00.002-04:00

I have always liked a challenge in everything I do. This is especially true when it comes to exercise. But even more than challenges, I like rewards, presents, prizes, the carrot at the end of the stick. That is why my workouts here in Italy have been so satisfying. When I am at home I dread the bike on the trainer or running on the track. But here, my workouts lead me somewhere - usually to some otherwise unreachable place. Tuesday it was an 11th century monastery in the tiny hamlet of San Fruttuoso. Kimberly and I hiked two hours to get there only to discover that, being low season, there was no boat to return to Portofino. Nevertheless, the hike was spectacular with stunning views overlooking the rocky coastline of the Italian Riviera. At one point we reached a gate and thought we were going to have to turn back. Fortunately we were able to continue but we were warned to close the gate behind us so that the wild boar could not enter... This is not something you will ever experience on a treadmill.

Today instead on the recommendation of the concierge at L’Andana (the most fabulous hotel I have found to date) I headed out and up on their property to a little 12th century church overlooking the Maremma region of Tuscany. The weather had turned cold during the night - cold by Italian standards, but there was no rain so I took advantage. As I headed up in to the woods on this dirt path I thought several times that I would just turn back. On the track it is so easy to do - just one more time around and you can get cut the workout short. But the promise of a jewel of a church kept me pushing forward even when I was convinced that I had taken a wrong turn. As I continued up along this rocky path many thoughts ran through my head....I really should have told someone I was doing this.... I should not be doing this alone..... I should have brought my cell phone and the number of the hotel. Once in a while these thoughts almost forced me to turn around. At one particular moment when the hike got very steep, rocky and uneven, I was about to go back to the hotel. But there was a bend and I could not see what was beyond. I had to know if the church was around the curve. I continued on and as always, I was rewarded. The carrot was waiting for me and it definitely was worth the effort. On the way back down I took in the magnificent views that were at my back as I made the climb. An hour and fifteen minutes had past by the time I got back to the hotel. Can you imagine the torture of doing that on the treadmill??? My advice to you - get yourself over to Italy and find some of the most hidden treasures, all while fitting in your workout.

I am not a travel blogger

2009-02-16T12:34:00.004-05:00

With all due respect to those who are, I feel that much of the travel blogging I see on the internet is the equivalent of Uncle Sid's slideshow from his trip cross country. It is interesting to those who know the person and is often a great way for folks to keep in touch from the road. That is not the goal of my blog however. I am an unabashed Italophile. I love all things Italian (well, maybe not tripe). I love talking about Italy, reading about Italy and sharing what I know about Italy. Thus the reason for this blog. I prefer that you think of this as the inside track to things Italian. I will talk about food, wine, art and culture, great unknown hotels and restaurants and above all completely irrelevant but curious things about Italy and the Italians. If you are a lover of things Italian check back here frequently. Some regular features will include Word of the Week, Top Ten lists and Today's Pick. I would love to hear your comments and feedback as well. So, until next time - Ciao!