I have a love
affair with coffee. It all began in Rome, June
1990, at the Hotel Smeraldo. The signora would make café latte in the morning and
it was ambrosia. No matter what time we had rolled in the night before,
Mimi and I would set our alarm clock to make sure we did not miss the breakfast
service at the hotel. Cafe latte, cookies, nun buns and jam.
I have stayed in hundreds of hotels since my first stay at the Smeraldo and not
one of them serves a café latte that even comes close.
The best place to
get a coffee is at a cafe - preferably one that serves ALOT of coffee. It is
believed that the more a machine is used, the better the coffee will be.
So don't be put off by a crowd at the bar. This is a good sign and the
baristas in Italy move with an efficiency that would humble the dude at
Starbucks.
Here is a primer on
how to order.
1. Scuro
“dark”. Cappucino scuro has extra
espresso in it. If you order your
cappuccino with an extra shot in the US, this is the way to go in Italy.
2. Al
vetro “in glass”. Some
Italians have a preference that their espresso (or cappuccino) is served in a glass
rather than a ceramic cup.
Sometimes the espresso will come in glass regardless but if this is your
preference, make sure you specify.
3. Tepido “lukewarm” Italians have a fear of
beverages that are either too cold (no ice, please) or too hot. The ideal temperature of a cappuccino
in Italy will be lower than what you might expect here but if you want to make
sure that it is immediately drinkable, go for “tepido”.
4. Ben
caldo – “good and hot” - on a blustery January day this is
how I order a cappuccino. There is
something so comforting about taking a break in a cozy bar after a morning of
sightseeing. The counter is
buzzing and you can people watch while you wrap your hands around a steaming
cappuccino.
Heaven!
5. Ristretto
– “restrained” Somehow this
has something to do with how the
shot of espresso is made. It makes it much more intense. You will usually see a
well-dressed Italian businessman with a cigarette and a newspaper in hand
drinking this.
6.
Senza schiuma “without foam”
7. Latte
macchiato “stained milk” -
a steamed milk with a drop of
espresso in it. It is usually how
kids start drinking coffee in Italy.
The opposite of this is a café macchiato (stained coffee)
which is an espresso with a drop of milk. A good option for those who are not quite ready for a
straight espresso.
8. Corretto
“corrected” – what better way to “correct” an espresso than to add a shot of
grappa to it?!? I know, it
sounds intense but it is an option and I can see it being useful in 2 ways. 1) it warms you from the inside out
which makes it a perfect option for those Alpine shepherds heading out to work
in the Dolomites. 2) it cures what
ails you. I drank a corretto one evening after a long day of travel during
which I came down with a brutal cold.
The next morning, the cold was gone and I was back on my feet. True story.
9. Americano
“American”. Don’t expect a brewed,
percolated coffee. The barista
takes a shot of espresso and fills the cup with hot water.
10. Con
cornetto – the BEST way to order a coffee. With a croissant, but only at the right café that makes
pastries that are worth the calories.
I love the lemon and pistachio or multigrain with honey. It’s an indulgence that I permit myself
once per trip. YOLO, right??

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