Traveling with kids

As I zipped up my suitcase and pulled it off the bed I thought to myself, “What was I thinking??” In November when we were contemplating this, it seemed like a great idea. My stepdaughter Caitlin has been bugging me to tag along on one of my trips to Italy for several years now and we finally decided that it was time. What I forgot was that I am a solitary traveler, especially when it comes to international trips. I am accustomed to traveling to Italy - I go about 4 times a year - and I have a routine down when I go. I spend a lot of quality time with my IPod and I am asleep before the plane even leaves the ground.

We travel often with our children (ages 13, 13 and 6). Granted, these trips have been limited in scope to the East Coast - Florida, Cape Cod, Pittsburgh, upstate NY, Maryland - but they have all been stellar travelers so in a moment of weakness I agreed to this idea. We mulled over all of the possibilities - should we take the whole family? Should we take the twins and leave the little one behind? Should my husband and I take Caitlin alone? None of the combinations seemed right in one way or another until we decided that I would share this place that was so important to me and so interesting to Caitlin with her alone.

Here are some tips on how to make the most of a trip abroad with children :

Go somewhere that you know or at least that you have visited before - this is not the time to be doing the whole “wing and a prayer” style of travel. I love doing that when I am alone or with my husband but when children are involved I think it is important to have a familiarity with the place. That is not to say that things will always go perfectly smoothly but you are definitely minimizing the possibility of complete disasters.

Relax - you don’t have to go to the Louvre when you are in Paris. Remember that this experience is for the kids and think about it from their perspective. I had made reservations for the Borghese Gallery but we passed it up so that Caitlin could go shopping for a orange scarf. This may seem materialistic and shallow to some but for me it was confirmation that Caitlin was “getting it”. She had been observing the Italian people, noticed that everyone wears scarves and decided that this was something that she wanted to bring back as a memento of her trip. We still smile when she pulls it out of the closet.

Let the kids make some decisions. Have an idea of an itinerary but be flexible enough that you can change the itinerary if something particularly intrigues your kids. I had planned all these great restaurants for us to eat in but on the first day in Rome Caitlin fell in love with the pizza at the bakery across the street from the hotel. By the end of each day, she was so exhausted that the idea of waiting until 8:00 for dinner was inconceivable so we would grab a piece of pizza al taglio, a couple of biscotti and a drink, curl up in bed and watch a movie on her DVD player. Being the foodie that I am, this of course bothered me until I just let go and realized that this was not going to be like the trips I usually take to Italy. And that is just fine.

Don’t criticize their observations. When we were in Rome there were things Caitlin did not like - she was bored at many of the churches that I dragged her into. I began to lose my patience and then I thought back to my husband’s first trip to Italy He was bored at many of the churches too. Medieval history is not for everyone, you know.

Don’t insist on seeing everything. If Doug and I have learned one thing in traveling with the kids, it is that less is more. I think this is even more the case when it comes to international travel. You are laying the groundwork for a lifetime of adventures for your children so don’t treat it as a once in a lifetime and try to pack it all in. Caitlin and I had a ball sitting on a wall overlooking the Umbrian countryside in Orvieto, drinking cappuccino at a cafe in Piazza Navona.

Above all, have fun and try to remember every precious moment!

After all my trepidation, I knew I had made the right decision when we pulled away from the hotel and headed to the airport. Caitlin looked out the window, waved goodbye to Rome and said “I think I’d like to go to Paris and London next”.

The Company You Keep

Travel is about people. Not only the people you meet but the people with whom you are traveling. The company that surrounds you can vastly change the experience you have while traveling. That is not to say that you have to always travel with the same people. I certainly know that is not true as in my job I have the distinct pleasure of traveling with a vast array of different people from all walks of life. Each time I run a trip, the experience is unique and interesting in its own way. I have been to the Spanish Steps in Rome more times than I can count but each time that experience is determined by my traveling companions. I recall my stepdaughter’s observations about the Italian people and her decision to buy a scarf just like was the fashion at that time. I remember clinging to my husband (then my boyfriend) for dear life as we made our way down the steps on the way to dinner. I had decided to get really dressed up for our last dinner in Rome, complete with stiletto heels. I quickly regretted this decision as we looked down from the top of the Spanish Steps. For clients who are interested in literature I point out the Keats/Shelley house, for those who seem less interested in anything cultural I point out the first McDonalds in Italy that is found right near the Spanish Steps. Every reaction and interaction that I have with my clients brings new perspective to my impressions of Italy and I appreciate that there is never only one way to see things. I relish the experiences I have while traveling in Italy because it is through that personal exchange that the true essence is reached. Next time you travel make sure that you not only take time to see the things you went to see but also to listen to those who are traveling with you and hear about the experience from their perspective. You won’t be disappointed.

L'Insalatone (The Big Salad)

I try not to make all of my entries about food and wine while I am traveling through Italy (though it would be easy to do so) but today I had to write about my lunch. For a long time I thought the American restaurant scene finally had something over the Italians: the salad. I don’t mean a little salad that you order with your meal, I mean the BIG SALAD (cue the Seinfeld music). Italian salad always lacked something. Yes, the lettuce was good, the carrots had more flavor than any I had ever tasted in the US and the tomatoes never tasted like cardboard. But in the past Italians would never accept a salad as an entrée and therefore the possibility to have just that rather than a pasta course, a meat course and THEN salad was inconceivable. And certainly, after all the food preceding it, one was never hoping for a big salad. But Italians have finally jumped on the big salad bandwagon and I must say, nobody does it better. Yesterday I had a divine salad with grilled chicken, parmesan shavings, cherry tomatoes and olives. There was no inquiry about whether or not I wanted creamy garlic salsa ranch peppercorn dressing. The dark green local olive oil bottle was plopped on my table along with a bottle of balsamic vinegar and salt. No pepper, that is by special request only. A glass of prosecco, my big salad and a hunk of fresh bread – che buono! Life is good!

The Seasoned Traveler....well, maybe not.

There are times when I feel like a real pro when I travel. This three week trip had me especially proud because I really limited my clothing choices, accepting the fact that yes, I can wear the same shirt a few times in the arc of three weeks and admitting that yes, there are laundry services here in Italy. I even limited my shoes to four pairs (five if you include my running shoes but those will be used only when I go for a run. I lived in Rome for long enough to know that my New Balance sneaks are definitely a fashion "don't").

My flight was easy and all connections were on time. I slept for five hours on the plane and when I got to Milan, my bag was there as well. So you can imagine that I was feeling sure of myself at the very least, dare I say a little cocky. And that is when the travel gods decided to teach me a lesson. I was halfway to Lake Garda when I realized that I had left my travel wallet with passport and all my travel documents in the bathroom at the Malpensa airport. My fabulous and adorable driver Stefano worked his magic - he made calls to the main switchboard at the airport,to the police and the Lost & Found until he finally tracked down the wallet. Then he arranged for a colleague to pick the wallet up for me and he will bring it to me tomorrow when he picks up my clients at the airport and brings them to the hotel.

Travel (especially international) isn't always easy. But we should do it anyway. It usually works out just fine - I know it did for me! Buona notte!

Val D'Orcia & the New York Times

Today's New York Times travel section included a piece on an undiscovered (or more accurately, a less discovered) corner of Tuscany called the Val D'Orcia. My most recent visit to this little parcel of heaven was last March where, despite snow and roads that required an off road vehicle that would resemble a tank more than a car, I had a most serene and inspiring stay. My home away from home was the magnificent La Bandita, which is also mentioned in this article. Here is the link - it's not often that I concur with those who write about Italy but in this case, Ms. Pergament is right on the mark. http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/03/07/travel/07tuscany.html?scp=1&sq=tuscany&st=cse

Not in Kansas anymore....(Feb 11, 2010)

I headed out from Franciacorta in the snow. The roads were clear though so nothing major fortunately. Now here I am in what can only be described as the perfect picture of an Alpine village. This is a town called Cogne in Val D'Aosta in the northwest corner of Italy. Gone are the rows of naked vines, the earth tones on the stucco-faced housed. All this is replaced with chalets, wooden buildings, soaring peaks, lots of snow and signage in French as well as Italian - magnificent. I have driven the roads of the Amalfi Coast, the Italian Riviera and the lakes but I must say that today was the most intense driving I have done in Italy. Perhaps it was the snow, the lack of familiarity with the roads, the avalanche warnings that I passed every few kilometers or so, or maybe it was the ravine that awaited me to my right should I make one false move. Mamma Mia... I drove through national park called Gran Paradiso - grand paradise - aptly named. The views are spectacular! Now I am nestled safely in a lovely little inn called Notre Maison. Dinner, breakfast and a bed all for 68 euro - can't beat it. As I sat at dinner the fire was roaring, the wine was flowing and I was green with envy as every one around me was talking about a fabulous day of skiing. But alas, no rest for the weary - I am off to Piedmont in the morning. See you soon!

On the Road Again!

Note: This has been posted a couple of days late - trouble getting to a computer. Such is life in Italy.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Greetings from Venice! Finally here after a day of travel that has become par for the course for any international traveller. Plane arrived in London on time but was still late as we waited on the tarmac for 45 minutes before a gate was available for us. Did what felt like a last chance workout through the halls of Heathrow. This included a pat down deluxe by a security guard. It seems that the Brits don’t wear underwire bras – that is the only explanation I have for the overzealous attention paid to my chest area. Despite my efforts and an all out sprint to the departure gate, I missed my flight to Venice. Took another to Rome and THEN on to Venice. The bad news: no luggage, - the good news: they know the bag is in Rome and should be here tomorrow. But as they say here “The only thing you can count on in Italy is a miracle. Praying to Saint Anthony tonight - we will see what happens. Stay tuned…..

Went to dinner in the Dorsoduro district. Did not want to go far from the hotel so I consulted a guide book , something I rarely do, preferring always to ask the locals for recommendations. From the moment I walked into the restaurant, I wanted to hate the place. It was big, ugly and lacked character. However, it was filled with people – some tourists but mostly locals and that is always a good sign but I was still wary. Then I ate the crostini with fontina cheese and porcini mushrooms - this was accompanied by “fried vegetables” - sounds nasty I know but it was one of the most delicious things I have eaten in a long time. Peppers, zucchini, eggplant and carrots(!) in a very light batter that was hardly there at all. Quickly fried and salted. Unbelieveable! Washed it down with a fabulous glass of prosecco (the drink of choice here in Venice) and returned to my hotel full and happy. A great start to a busy trip. More tomorrow.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Oh my ! Getting lost in Venice – this is truly the only way to go. I read a recommendation once that I will always remember. It said that if you are ever in Venice and you see something you love in a store, buy it. – you will never find your way back again! When you are here in Venice you follow signs to the major sites, monuments or squares – Piazza San Marco, Accademia Gallery, The Rialto Bridge. Sometimes there are proper signs that have been there for ages, other times there is a piece of paper taped to the wall of a building (I’m serious). Finally you arrive at a point where there are no directions and more than one way to go. What does one do? Choose one way – perhaps you choose the road less traveled or perhaps you decide to follow the crowd like a lemming. Either way, to be honest, you can’t go wrong. This evening I found the most fantastic wine bar. As usual I was lost (what’s new). The owner was a lovely blond woman who answered every question I had (Do you have Prosecco? Is the marmalade good?) with “Madonna!” which basically means “Are you kidding me?? Of course!” This place was obviously a local joint and far off the tourist track. I had a cheese plate with homemade marmalades – one was onion and the other was carrot and tomato. Sounds nasty I know but as the owner said, “The marmalade is like a drug” – and it was. Unfortunately (or fortunately) you can only get it there in that little wine bar in Venice - sounds like a good excuse to return (like I need one!) I just hope I can find it again!