10 Roman Gems

It has been a long time since I lived in Rome and I definitely start to feel "Romesick" if I go too long without my fix.  Having spent more than 4 years there, I rarely do the standard tourist thing when I return  - you would be hard pressed to find me waiting on line at the Vatican Museums.  Been there, done that, more times than I care to remember.  Rome is home to me and being in your hometown means going to local haunts, but also taking the time to appreciate the culture - though in a different way than one who is passing through for a weekend.   Here is a list of things that I love to do/see/visit when I go back to Rome.  Honestly, many of them revolve around food and drink but as they say....when in Rome....

• Borghese Gallery - I know, not exactly off the beaten path but I cannot resist this gallery. The sculptures by Bernini are exquisite.  If you go, make sure you book ahead of time or you will have a hard time getting in, especially in high season.  Following the visit (which is limited to two hours, you can walk through the Villa Borghese, a gorgeous urban park, and continue on to the Spanish Steps.
• Santa Sabina - this Early Christian church is located on the Aventine Hill and is worth the trek.  It is beautiful in its simplicity and is situated next to the park called the Orange Grove which affords a stellar view of the city.
• Granita di Caffe  - you will never be able to have a frappuccino again after tasting this decadent treat at the Caffe Tazza D'Oro near the Pantheon.  It is layers of frozen, sweetened espresso and fresh whipped cream.  Enough said. 
• Parco Celimontana - in the summertime (late July and August) the jazz club Alexanderplatz moves outside to take advantage of the splendid Roman summer nights.  The build a stage in the middle of a beautiful park near the Colosseum and offer nightly music and dining.  
• Antico Enoteca della Croce though there are many many winebars in Rome, this remains one of my favorites. Located near the Spanish steps, it is popular with locals and tourists alike.  Sit at the counter and have a glass from their extensive selection along with a plate of antipasto.  This is a perfect way to end a day in Rome. 
• Chiostro di Bramante Bramante's Cloister located at Santa Maria della Pace (Piazza Navona area) offers great exhibits and concerts.  It is worth checking out the schedule if you are going to be in Rome.
• Trattoria San Teodoro - this has always been and remains my favorite restaurant in Rome.  Located in a quiet neighborhood behind the Capitoline Hill, it is a popular spot for politicians, soccer players and various Roman celebrities.  The food is fantastic.  Be prepared to spend a lot but relish this special treat.  If they are available, have a carciofi della Giudea (Jewish artichoke). This is a typical Roman dish that they do better here than anywhere.  My brother still talks about those artichokes from his trip 10 years ago!
• Pizza Bianca - when your feet are aching from walking the cobblestones for miles and you need a midmorning break, head for Campo dei Fiori to the Forno for pizza bianca (white pizza).  This is pizza dough topped with salt and olive oil.  It comes out of the oven in a big slab and you can choose as big or small a piece as you would like.  It hits the spot and you can continue your trek through the Eternal City.
• Capitoline Cafe - on the Capitoline Hill, next to the museum shop there is a cafe' with a terrace and a magnificent view of Rome.  Go here for a prosecco in the late afternoon.  The light at sunset is sublime and of course, there's the prosecco....
• La Cremeria - the debate over the best gelato in Rome is a never ending one - San Crispono, Palazzo del Freddo, Giolitti, Gelateria delle Palme - but my personal favorite is La Cremeria at the Pantheon.  I don't actually go there for the gelato but for the cremolata which is like a sorbet but so much better.  In one cup you can get up to three flavors of fruit ice.  buonissimo!