Question of the Week

On Tuesdays I will now be requesting reader participation. Since I can never get enough of talking about Italy and sharing experiences, I decided that we should hear from anyone who would like to chime in and offer his or her own view of Italy.

Today's Question: What is your favorite place in Italy?

This can be a city, town, hotel, a specific spot from where you can see a most splendid sunset - anything that moves you. Tell us why this place means so much to you. If you are anything like me, it will be virtually impossible to choose but give us one (or two if you must!).

I will check back later today and leave my own reply.

Ciao!

Italian fever - catch it!

Last week I did a slide presentation about Italy at the Guilford Art Center.  About 45 people showed up and I talked about Italy and the Italians.  I was so pleased with the number of people who showed up and I was pleasantly surprised at the vast and varied Italian experiences that many of these folks had.  Obviously some of the them were of Italian heritage but this was really a small portion of them.  Many of them, like me, had gone to Italy and fallen in love - -not with a person but with a place, a culture, a lifestyle.  One man (clearly not Italian) came up to me and spoke several sentences in Italian - very charming.  He and his wife were leaving that week for their annual trip to Italy and were spending 5 weeks there - ah, to be retired!  We laughed about our experiences there, especially our adventures in driving and we were grateful that at least they drive on the same side of the road as we do here in the States.  One woman told me that she always thought her son-in-law who is of Italian descent was very quirky but after my lecture she gained some insight into the Italians and now realized why he is the way he is.  Another gentleman came up to me and thanked me for bringing back wonderful memories of the time he spent in Italy when he traveled there for business. He shared his own experiences with me and of course I was captivated. 

The love for things Italian truly brings people together.  We become a wee bit obsessed - the food, the wine, the art, the people - but it is harmless and really, how can you not love it all?  I am giving this lecture again this week at the Burlington, CT library - Thursday, Sept. 24 at 7 PM.  If you are in the area, join us!  It should be another fun evening of la dolce vita and we would love to see you there!

Ferragosto

Well finally here in Connecticut it actually feels like summer. Hot, humid and a little bit stifling. This to me is perfect summer weather. Sure it wreaks havoc on my hair which is not quite straight but not curly either and yes it makes me wish that I had central air. But more than anything, it reminds me of Italy and particularly Rome. Though I usually would spend the month of August back in the States, I did have a few occasions to find myself in the Eternal City for the hottest month of the year. It was not unusual for the temperature to hit 100 for several days straight. While this may seem like a true inferno for many, for me it turned Rome into the city I love the best. A city that slows down because in that heat, you can't do anything but slow to a snail's pace. Rome is surprisingly quiet during August as most Italians hit the road and spend a good part of the month at the shore. Those who are left make the best of a bad situation. Every square inch of sidewalk is used for outdoor seating at restaurants and cafes which come to life at about 10 PM when it has cooled off enough to even contemplate having dinner. No one expects you to do much all day - meet for an early morning coffee, eat a lemon granita, duck into a church less for the religion and more for the fact that these solid rock structures stay refreshingly cool and then maybe lounge in the Villa Borghese with a good book. The jazz clubs move outdoors, there are movies playing in the main squares of the city and any thought of sleep until the wee hours is put aside during these dog days of summer. Sound pretty civilized, doesn't it? Unfortunately there is not a sidewalk cafe to be found here in New London that is open at 3 AM - guess I will have to wait for my next August trip to Rome - can't wait!

Word of the Day

Buon giorno!  Welcome to Wednesday's word of the day.  And yes, I know that it is Thursday but we are on Italian time here folks.  Let it go and embrace the pace.  Apropos to this, my word of the day today is passeggiata.  This literally means a walk or stroll but has much deeper cultural implications.  The afternoon passeggiata in Italy is a central part of the day, especially weekend days.   Italians get dressed up in their finest and stroll up and down the main streets of their town or city.  As they stroll slowly (and I do mean SLOWLY), they check out everyone else - what they are wearing, who they are with, whether her bag is from last season etc.  They do not go very far but it takes a long time. Unlike Americans who head out at breakneck speed, there is not a destinations.  The Italians will walk somewhere until they decide to turn around and go back.  No purpose except to see, be seen and socialize with fellow strollers.  We need more of this in the States so this weekend, go out for a passeggiata.  Just be careful not to get plowed down by the speed walking soccer mom!  Until next time - ciao!

10 Roman Gems

It has been a long time since I lived in Rome and I definitely start to feel "Romesick" if I go too long without my fix.  Having spent more than 4 years there, I rarely do the standard tourist thing when I return  - you would be hard pressed to find me waiting on line at the Vatican Museums.  Been there, done that, more times than I care to remember.  Rome is home to me and being in your hometown means going to local haunts, but also taking the time to appreciate the culture - though in a different way than one who is passing through for a weekend.   Here is a list of things that I love to do/see/visit when I go back to Rome.  Honestly, many of them revolve around food and drink but as they say....when in Rome....

• Borghese Gallery - I know, not exactly off the beaten path but I cannot resist this gallery. The sculptures by Bernini are exquisite.  If you go, make sure you book ahead of time or you will have a hard time getting in, especially in high season.  Following the visit (which is limited to two hours, you can walk through the Villa Borghese, a gorgeous urban park, and continue on to the Spanish Steps.
• Santa Sabina - this Early Christian church is located on the Aventine Hill and is worth the trek.  It is beautiful in its simplicity and is situated next to the park called the Orange Grove which affords a stellar view of the city.
• Granita di Caffe  - you will never be able to have a frappuccino again after tasting this decadent treat at the Caffe Tazza D'Oro near the Pantheon.  It is layers of frozen, sweetened espresso and fresh whipped cream.  Enough said. 
• Parco Celimontana - in the summertime (late July and August) the jazz club Alexanderplatz moves outside to take advantage of the splendid Roman summer nights.  The build a stage in the middle of a beautiful park near the Colosseum and offer nightly music and dining.  
• Antico Enoteca della Croce though there are many many winebars in Rome, this remains one of my favorites. Located near the Spanish steps, it is popular with locals and tourists alike.  Sit at the counter and have a glass from their extensive selection along with a plate of antipasto.  This is a perfect way to end a day in Rome. 
• Chiostro di Bramante Bramante's Cloister located at Santa Maria della Pace (Piazza Navona area) offers great exhibits and concerts.  It is worth checking out the schedule if you are going to be in Rome.
• Trattoria San Teodoro - this has always been and remains my favorite restaurant in Rome.  Located in a quiet neighborhood behind the Capitoline Hill, it is a popular spot for politicians, soccer players and various Roman celebrities.  The food is fantastic.  Be prepared to spend a lot but relish this special treat.  If they are available, have a carciofi della Giudea (Jewish artichoke). This is a typical Roman dish that they do better here than anywhere.  My brother still talks about those artichokes from his trip 10 years ago!
• Pizza Bianca - when your feet are aching from walking the cobblestones for miles and you need a midmorning break, head for Campo dei Fiori to the Forno for pizza bianca (white pizza).  This is pizza dough topped with salt and olive oil.  It comes out of the oven in a big slab and you can choose as big or small a piece as you would like.  It hits the spot and you can continue your trek through the Eternal City.
• Capitoline Cafe - on the Capitoline Hill, next to the museum shop there is a cafe' with a terrace and a magnificent view of Rome.  Go here for a prosecco in the late afternoon.  The light at sunset is sublime and of course, there's the prosecco....
• La Cremeria - the debate over the best gelato in Rome is a never ending one - San Crispono, Palazzo del Freddo, Giolitti, Gelateria delle Palme - but my personal favorite is La Cremeria at the Pantheon.  I don't actually go there for the gelato but for the cremolata which is like a sorbet but so much better.  In one cup you can get up to three flavors of fruit ice.  buonissimo!

Word of the Day

Hello all!  Today's word is primavera.  It means spring.  Although this morning it did not feel much like spring as we had snowflakes in the air, I know the good weather is just around the corner.  Spring in Italy is fabulous  - not so hot or crowded as it is in the summer and one can truly feel a reawakening.  Gastronomically speaking it means some of my favorite delights - asparagus, fava beans, artichokes.  If you have never had an Jewish artichoke in Rome, you have not lived.  There is nothing simpler or more delicious.  The whole artichoke is fried in olive oil until the leaves are crispy and golden and then it is sprinkled with salt and served as an appetizer.  Go to Rome and get one - NOW!  The experience will be a true celebration of La Primavera (also a pretty nice work of art by Botticelli in the Uffizi by the way.)  

I don't like tiramisu.

There, I said it. I feel like a huge weight has been lifted from my shoulders.   I don't know why I don't like it, I just don't.  It seems almost sacrilege for an Italophile like myself to admit this.

While I am not a fan of the dessert, the process of making it is wonderful.  I love to cook and appreciate the time and precision of a dessert such as tiramisu.  Every cook has his or her own technique and recipe, no one does it exactly like another.  Last May I took 7 clients to the Villa di Riboia for a cooking class.  This is a private home nestled in the hills outside of Florence.  Milvia showed us how to make an exquisite sauce for pasta and in it she cooked our second course of involtini. While that was cooking she made us some bruschetta and a tiramisu that even I have to admit, was like no other.  The kitchen was the epitome of calm the entire time. It was incredible. Milvia whipped up some delicious spinach to serve with the involtini and while the pasta was cooking she took us on a tour of her villa. She was amazing, but very set in her ways. We sat when and where she asked us to, we tasted when she said taste, sipped wine when she said it was to be (even though it was only 10:30 AM) lent a hand when she asked for it. At one point while she was making the tiramisu, she said (through me as I translated), you can make this in the morning before your dinner party and put it into the refrigerator until it is   time to serve.   So one of the women in our group piped up and said "or you could make it the night before, right?"  I translated for Milvia and I have never seen such a horrified look on someone's face. So clearly, the lesson here is, you don't make your tiramisu the night before.  But if you choose to do so, your secret is safe with me.  Here is the recipe:

Mamma Milvia’s Tiramisù

5 eggs, separated

500 grams mascarpone

5 Tbs. sugar

Add a pinch of salt to the whites and mix until they form stiff peaks. Set aside

Mix sugar and yolks with a mixer.  Add mascarpone and mix until well blended.  Slowly and gently fold in the egg whites until you have a smooth dense liquid.

1 1/2 cups freshly brewed espresso

2 Tbs rum (more or less)

3 tsp sugar

Mix the above ingredients together. Dunk pavesini (or lady fingers) in the espresso mixture and place in a 13 x 9 baking dish making them fit in tightly to completely cover the bottom of the pan.  Pour 1/3 of the mascarpone mixture over the cookies. Sprinkle with bittersweet chocolate shavings.  Add a 2nd layer of the cookies (this layer does not need to touch).  Pour another 1/3 of the mascarpone mixture over the top and shave with chocolate.  Repeat with cookies, mascarpone and chocolate.  Refrigerate for a couple of hours before serving.

Notes:

If you can find the ladyfingers that are crunchy rather than soft, they seem to work better.   I found them at Whole Foods but a good Italian market will have them too (in that case look for pavesini).  Buon Appetito!

Tastefully yours,
Ashley

Worth the effort!

I have always liked a challenge in everything I do. This is especially true when it comes to exercise. But even more than challenges, I like rewards, presents, prizes, the carrot at the end of the stick. That is why my workouts here in Italy have been so satisfying. When I am at home I dread the bike on the trainer or running on the track. But here, my workouts lead me somewhere - usually to some otherwise unreachable place. Tuesday it was an 11th century monastery in the tiny hamlet of San Fruttuoso. Kimberly and I hiked two hours to get there only to discover that, being low season, there was no boat to return to Portofino. Nevertheless, the hike was spectacular with stunning views overlooking the rocky coastline of the Italian Riviera. At one point we reached a gate and thought we were going to have to turn back. Fortunately we were able to continue but we were warned to close the gate behind us so that the wild boar could not enter... This is not something you will ever experience on a treadmill.

Today instead on the recommendation of the concierge at L’Andana (the most fabulous hotel I have found to date) I headed out and up on their property to a little 12th century church overlooking the Maremma region of Tuscany. The weather had turned cold during the night - cold by Italian standards, but there was no rain so I took advantage. As I headed up in to the woods on this dirt path I thought several times that I would just turn back. On the track it is so easy to do - just one more time around and you can get cut the workout short. But the promise of a jewel of a church kept me pushing forward even when I was convinced that I had taken a wrong turn. As I continued up along this rocky path many thoughts ran through my head....I really should have told someone I was doing this.... I should not be doing this alone..... I should have brought my cell phone and the number of the hotel. Once in a while these thoughts almost forced me to turn around. At one particular moment when the hike got very steep, rocky and uneven, I was about to go back to the hotel. But there was a bend and I could not see what was beyond. I had to know if the church was around the curve. I continued on and as always, I was rewarded. The carrot was waiting for me and it definitely was worth the effort. On the way back down I took in the magnificent views that were at my back as I made the climb. An hour and fifteen minutes had past by the time I got back to the hotel. Can you imagine the torture of doing that on the treadmill??? My advice to you - get yourself over to Italy and find some of the most hidden treasures, all while fitting in your workout.

I am not a travel blogger

With all due respect to those who are, I feel that much of the travel blogging I see on the internet is the equivalent of Uncle Sid's slideshow from his trip cross country.  It is interesting to those who know the person and is often a great way for folks to keep in touch from the road.  That is not the goal of my blog however.   I am an unabashed Italophile.  I love all things Italian (well, maybe not tripe).  I love talking about Italy, reading about Italy and sharing what I know about Italy.  Thus the reason for this blog. I prefer that you think of this as the inside track to things Italian. I will talk about food, wine, art and culture, great unknown hotels and restaurants and above all completely irrelevant but curious things about Italy and the Italians. If you are a lover of things Italian check back here frequently.  Some regular features will include Word of the Week, Top Ten lists and Today's Pick.  I would love to hear your comments and feedback as well.  So, until next time - Ciao!